Mountain Resorts :India

Pahalgam, Sonamarg and Gulmarg are the three main mountain resorts around Srinagar. They offer a quiet contrast to the city. Pahalgam is 96 kilometres (60 miles) east of the city and lies at a height of 2,400 metres (7,874 feet). Some 29 kilometres (18 miles) from Srinagar, the road runs through Avanlipur, where there are two remarkable ruined temples built by King Avantivarman in the ninth century. The larger is dedicated to Vishnu, and the other to Shiva. The road goes on to Anantnag, a town famous for its wooden toys. From where there is a short but worthwhile diversion to the Mughal Gardens at Acchabal, 58 kilometres (36 miles) from Srinagar. The gardens were largely the creation of Nur Jahan and lie on the old direct Srinagar-Jammu road. Their main feature is a stream which gushes out of the bottom of the hillside into a reservoir and over a waterfall. There are tourist huts here for overnight halts.

The other Mughal Gardens outside Srinagar (also with overnight accommodation) are the Verinag Gardens, 78 kilometres (49 miles) away, which have an octagonal pool and which were the favourite gardens of Jahangir and his consort.

Back on the Pahalgam road is Martand. 64 kilometres (40 miles) from Srinagar. It is the site of the grand ruins of a sun temple said to have been built by the warrior king l.alitaditya Mukhtanpida in the seventh century.

Pahalgam itself is little more than a single street on the banks of the Lidder River. The Udder Valley is full of streams and is surrounded by mountains and glaciers. For hotels here, see page 270.

There are a few pleasant walks here. One leads to Mamaleswara an ancient Shiva temple, around a kilometre (half a mile) downstream. Another leads to the Baisaran meadow five kilometres (three miles) away and overlooking Pahalgam, and 11 kilometres (seven miles) further on, the Tulian Lake (altitude 3,335 metres or 10,942 feet). You can also walk to the village of Aru, 11 kilometres (seven miles) upstream. This is the first stage in the trek to the Kolahoi Glacier, for which Pahalgam is the base.